On your own
What to eat in Valencia
Paella valenciana, at lunch. Good rice restaurants often want it ordered ahead, and it's made for two or more.
Arroz a banda and arroz negro. The seafood rices. Arroz a banda is cooked in fish stock and served with allioli, and arroz negro is black with squid ink.
All i pebre. Eel stewed with garlic, paprika and potato, the dish of El Palmar and Catarroja on the Albufera.
Esgarraet. Roasted red pepper with salt cod, served cold as a tapa.
Clòtxines. Small, sweet Valencian mussels, steamed, and only in season from May to August. Out of season, the mussels on the menu come from somewhere else.
The esmorzaret. The mid-morning meal, eaten before noon. Central Bar, Ricard Camarena's counter inside the Mercado Central, serves it in the mornings.
Horchata and fartons. Tiger nut milk, sweet and ice-cold, pressed from chufa grown in a handful of towns just north of the city around Alboraya, and drunk with a fartón to dip in it, especially in summer. Horchatería Daniel, a family name from Alboraya, has a stall in the Mercado de Colón, the city's other modernist market.
Agua de Valencia. Orange juice and cava, the city's own cocktail, usually served by the jug to share.
Buñuelos de calabaza. Pumpkin fritters with hot chocolate, sold from street stalls during Fallas in March.