The Best Pintxos Bars in San Sebastián, Bar by Bar
Two evenings, one in the old town and one in Gros, with the one or two things to order in each bar.
Read the articleDeep dives into Spain's food culture: tour rankings, neighborhood guides, and how to eat like a local.
Six pages to keep on your phone: how tapas and pintxos work, the phrases that get you served, and what to eat in Madrid, Barcelona and San Sebastián.
Two evenings, one in the old town and one in Gros, with the one or two things to order in each bar.
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A winery day in Toledo and a suckling pig lunch in Segovia: what to eat, where, and which tours are worth it.
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Turrón, escudella, canelons, txistorra and roscón: what to eat at Christmas in Madrid, Barcelona and San Sebastián, and on which day.
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Where to sit, what size to order, which city makes it easiest, and the food tours worth booking on your own.
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There are over 50 food tours competing for your attention in Barcelona. Here are the nine I'd actually recommend, and the one I'd send a friend on first.
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Fifteen dishes that explain Barcelona, what they are, what makes them good, and which to prioritize on a short trip. Skip the tourist menu. Eat like a Catalan.
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A visitor's guide to the unwritten rules, meal timing, ordering customs, regional differences, and how to spot the difference between a real tapas bar and a tourist trap.
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How to actually eat at Barcelona's most famous food market, which stalls to skip, where the locals go, and the layout most visitors get wrong.
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Classic taverns or Catalan cooking? How Spain's two big food cities really compare at the table, and which to choose.
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Two of Spain's great food cities, two very different experiences. The honest case for each, and which one you should actually pick for your trip.
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Every one of them shows five stars, which makes the ratings useless. Here is what actually separates them, and why the cheapest of them is the one to book.
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Spain's most famous wine region is two hours from San Sebastián and four from Madrid, which is why nobody runs the Madrid version. Six tours, and the gap is not about quality.
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Do you help yourself? When do you pay? How many should you order? The rules nobody explains, and the mistake almost every first-timer makes.
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The pintxos on the counter are not the point. Fifteen things worth eating, and the bar that does each one best.
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The world calls it burnt. The original, from La Viña in San Sebastián, is not. How to tell the real thing from a bad copy, and where to eat it.
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Same grape, very different wine. And for anyone traveling, the deciding factor has nothing to do with taste.
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Cocido, bocadillo de calamares, huevos rotos and churros at 2am. And the one dish you should never order in Madrid.
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A chickpea stew in three courses, two hours at the table, and only really worth it from October to April. How to eat it, and where.
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A focused list for travelers who want to eat their way through Barcelona's oldest neighborhood, not a generic citywide tour, but tours that actually stay inside the Gothic Quarter's labyrinth.
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El Born is the Gothic Quarter's quieter, artsier neighbor, narrow medieval streets, natural wine bars, and some of the best small plates in Barcelona. Here's what's worth booking.
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Cava is made forty kilometers from Barcelona, by the same method as champagne, at a fraction of the price. Here is how to spend a day where it comes from.
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Spain's most serious red wine region is two hours north of Madrid. A long day, not cheap, and the best thing you can do with a Tuesday.
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Madrid has more genuinely good food tours than Barcelona and fewer people writing about them. Here are the eight worth booking.
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Cava Baja is the best tapas street in Spain. Four tours do it justice, and three listings will try to sell you the same one.
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Most visitors walk through Eixample to photograph the architecture, then go back to the old city to eat. That's backwards, and this is the short list of tours that fix it.
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Gràcia has exactly one food tour left worth booking. Here it is, why the others closed, and how to eat the neighborhood on your own.
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The tour I used to recommend here has quietly closed. These are the four still running, and what each one is actually for.
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A real phrasebook for Spanish bars, the words you need, the customs locals follow, and the unwritten rules most tourists miss. Avoid the moment of panic at the counter.
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The most-Instagrammed market in Madrid, and the one every guidebook tells you to visit. Here's what's genuinely good, what to skip, and how to budget your visit properly.
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